Travel tales from Tangier
Tangier the archway to Morocco’s mystique…
Travelling south from Fes towards the town of Merzouga on the outskirts of Morocco’s Sahara Desert, or Erg Chebbi (“Sea of Sand”), the pastures and green cedar forests give way early to the stark and dramatic arid landscapes of Morocco’s Sahara Desert.
The Moroccan Sahara desert, begins on the Atlantic Coast and runs along the southern side of the often snowy Atlas Mountains, stretching east, towards the border of Algeria, continuing through Libya, Egypt and in to Saudi Arabia.
The drive to Merzouga is around 8 hours, with the landscape changing every few hours from snow-capped mountains, fertile plains, and rocky oases where villages line a river that meanders for hundreds of kilometres.
This is a fierce landscape not to be underestimated, and by contrast, arriving at the desert dunes, their tranquillity and beauty provide a deep sense of peace and isolation.
The Erg Chebbi measures approximately 22 km long and 5 km wide, and its largest dunes reach up to 525 feet (160 metres).
Throughout the day are the colours change from rose gold at first light, to yellow, orange, ending with a fiery red at sunset. The sand is silky soft to touch and remains warm into the cold night, in contrast to the surrounding coarse and gritty black hammada.
The weather conditions are tough with little rainfall, low humidity, and temperatures range from -3ºC in winter to soaring over 45ºC+ during the summer, with strong winds whipping up dust and sandstorms.
During September 2024, huge rains came to the area and caused flooding. The rains filled the dry lake beds and created oasis swimming pools amongst the dunes for the first time in 30 years. It was a privilege to witness firsthand during my October visit.
While unrelentingly harsh, there is life on the edges and within the dunes. Nomadic Berber or Amazigh (meaning “free people”) have lived there for thousands of years. Traditionally nomadic pastoralists, they still tend to flocks of sheep and goats, trade goods and move with camels across the plains.
True nomads, they live simply under the shelter of camel or goat hair tents and move as the seasons require.
Not too deep under the desert sands of the Erg Chebbi water can be found and daily trips to the wells to collect water are a part of life.
Today, tourism is a large part of the desert economy and visiting a nomad camp is an insight to how life has been lived for millenia.
Musicians from the Sub-Sahara who have relocated to Merzouga, will happily entertain guests with traditional Gnawa music, A mix of rhythmic beats using Garagab (castanets), drums and a three stringed Lute type instrument.
Amongst the dunes are many plants and wildlife, including palm trees and small flowering bushes which protect small animals, birds and reptiles. The elusive small white Fennec Fox burrows under the bushes into the sand to create underground tunnels. I’m yet to see one, however, their footprints are easy to spot!
A visit to Merzouga and the Erg Chebbi should not to be rushed, with a recommended two nights minimum. A typical journey will take four days and just over 1000kms, departing from Fes to the desert and onwards to Marrakech via the Oasis town of Skoura and over the High Atlas Mountains. Some companies sell tours over 3 days, however, this is a rushed experience, and if you’re travelling all the way to the Moroccan Sahara Desert, I can’t understand the need to rush in and out so quickly – it’s not somewhere you’ll visit often, therefore, enjoy, take your time and make the most of your experience.
Upon arrival and following many hours of travel, it’s recommended to spend the night at a Riad or Kasbah located just out of town in view of the Erg Chebbi dunes. It’s a great place to rest before spending the day exploring the desert sands, and before you stay overnight at a luxury tented camp on the edge of the dunes. This is a once-in-a-lifetime experience and a peek into traditional Berber or Amazigh culture. Sitting atop a camel, dressed in a traditional Tuareg scarf, riding across the dunes and stopping to watch the sunset, is only the beginning of a magical night.
Arriving at camp at dusk, you’ll be treated to dinner followed by music, drumming, dance and song around the large firepit, and before you turn in for the night, look up at the clear black sky covered in a blanket of thousands of stars. With little outside light pollution, stargazers are treated to a spectacular sight.
Below are snapshots of my time spent visiting Merzouga and the Erg Chebbi 💛
Below are images on my way to the Moroccan Sahara Desert.
Nicole x
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